The Infamous Gentle Cleanser

The truth about gentle cleansers!

In the skin care community, there exists a cleanser that has become infamous as the “go-to” recommendation by dermatologists for compromised, sensitive, or post-procedural skin. This cleanser is touted to be hypo-allergenic and an all-around “safe” choice for problematic skin. It is sold from the shelves in every grocery store, pharmacy, and strip-mall department store in America and comes in at a whopping, $8-12.

As I’m sure some of you have guessed, the cleanser in question is Cetaphil.

I would like to dedicate this blog article to analyzing the full ingredients found in Cetaphil to further educate and empower estheticians on why it’s so “gentle” and why there are better options.

Let’s begin with the ingredients and what they actually do to the body or skin:

1)Water- Makes the product soluble and cheaper to manufacture. Allows the cleanser to be liquid.

2) Cetyl Alcohol- An emollient that makes hair and skin “feel” smooth. Gives the product a creamy texture and when added to an ingredient like #4, allows oil and water to mix.

3)Propylene Glycol- A form of mineral oil that prevents evaporation in the skin. It breaks down oil and is also found in antifreeze. It is a proven cause of liver and kidney damage. Banned in hair products in Europe.

4) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate- A surfactant and proven irritant. This is the only true active ingredient as it is the only ingredient that cleans skin. Studies show that this ingredient may increase hypersensitivities.

5) Stearyl Alcohol- Very similar to cetyl alcohol.

6) Methylparaben- A preservative that is very effective against fungus and yeasts. It is linked to breast cancer due to being found in high amounts in breast tumors. Studies have also indicated that it can interfere with the endocrine system due to its estrogenic effects. Two independent studies in Japan even show that it accelerates skin aging when activated by UV rays.

7) Propylparaben- Same as methylparaben.

8) Butylparaben- Same as methylparaben

So, now that we know there is only one active ingredient, sodium lauryl sulfate, and then a lot of unscented fluff and nasty chemicals, why is every dermatologist in the world recommending this product???!

I think there are three answers to this riddle:

1)     Simple ignorance. I don’t think many of the doctor’s offices who recommend this cleanser honestly know what’s in it. I also don’t think that many medical office managers or physicians understand that they are losing money by recommending grocery store labels, but I’ll leave that for another blog. Additionally, many doctors believe that the anti-chemical movement is all just hype.

2)     Simple simplicity- Another common reason for recommending this product, is that it’s an easy solution. Given that the product does very little for and to the skin, it’s a safe bet. Recommending parties are choosing easy instead of BETTER.

3)     Fear- You would be surprised to know that most medi-spas lose retail and home care sales because they are scared of client sticker shock. Since intensive corrective procedures usually come with a high dollar price, practitioners feel that it’s adding insult to injury to tack on an extra $100-200 in quality home care.

So, what are your options when you are trying to cheaply clean compromised skin?

Under $50

1)     Stone Crop Gel Wash- A pea-sized drop with clean and whole face and neck. At $39 a bottle, it can last up to 3 months. Awesome!

2)     Coconut Milk Cleanser- Half a pump will cleanse the face, neck, and chest, plus offer a naturally anti-microbial and skin softening boost. Perfect after peels, dermaplaning, and burns. $39 for about 4 months of supply.

Under $20

1)     Coconut water or green tea mixed with honey and cinnamon- Scoop out a small amount of honey and add a pinch of cinnamon into the palm of your hand. Slowly add coconut water or tea, until you have a soft gel and cleanse. Add a drop of tea tree for any inflamed skin or infected lesions.

2)  If the skin is really raw, just plain coconut oil will cleanse and protect. Warm a small amount in clean hands and massage into the skin. Remove with a soft, wet cloth and moisurize.

 

Happy facialing!!!